Leaving Malaysia for Singapore
This is my last day in Malaysia, if nothing unexpected comes up, touch wood! my plan is to reach Singapore and my hotel on Temple Street late this afternoon.
The sun is shining from an almost clear sky and it is hot and very humid. I did a short stop and break when I saw a sign for bee farm, only 2 km from mainroad.
Diving and Aquatic Varan
My second day on the island of Pulau Tioman is just nothing to write about, sleeps late, eats breakfast and strolls around among the few shops that are here. Tekek, the main village actually has only one street, where almost every shop, bar, restaurant and rental/tourism company is located. Tekek has also a very small airport, and a bank, but no problem to use creditcards.
Tomorrow I had bought a speed boat tour, for bath and diving with snorkel.
Good Night
// P-G, The Global Cyclist
I woke up half past seven, walk some fifty meter to breakfast room for fried eggs and rice, toast butter and cheese and before I left
black coffe.
The speed boat leaves halv past nine from the marinan, 10 minutes walk from my cottage room. Marina from where all speed boats leaves
The weather is perfect, no to warm and some wind.
We are 10-11 person, most from Malaysia but also three girls from Germany. We stops at some popular beaches for snorkling and bath.
The snorkeling equipment is provided by the tour operator. I haven´t snorkle much before so it will so it takes a little bit of practice to find the technique and rhythm in your breathing, but then a whole new world appears under the surface. Lots of colerful fishes and corals.
Some of the girls bring slices of bread that they fed the fishesd with, they acte like flies on a suguar cube. It was cool to swim in the middle of a school of fish.
Before our lunch at a popular diving-and beach bay, Salang Village we had some more stops for diving. The water is clear and there are lots of colorful fish around all the time. Feels like you are swimming in an aquarium.
Here we stay for an hour for lunch before we head a little further north around a small island that is a bit out to sea.
This island is not allowed to go ashore as it is home to some Varanas, but we did get to see one or two wandering in a leisurely rocking walk on the small beach that existed.
Some years ago these varanas was quite common on main island and Tekek, they become to ”friendly” because the tourist fed them. So they decided to move them to an emty island.
Halv past three we where back at marinan and I was quite satisfied. Back to my cottageroom for a quick shower to get rid of all the salt. The late dinner a some cold beer
Tomorrow I need to get up early, the ferry boat back to mainland, Mersing departs 7 am
Good Night
// P-G, The Global Cyclist
Our routs splits and ferryboat to Pulau Tioman
After our lunch Marcus join me to the ferry terminal and from here our paths diverge.
Mersing ferry harbor terminal
The ferry leaves 5 pm so little more than an hour to by a ticket and a cup of coffe. There are quite a lot of people waiting for the ferry.60 RM (130 SEK) coast the ferry ticket for Bluewater Ferry and the journey takes about 1.5 to 2 hours depending on the weather and tide conditions.
Bluewater ferry
Vädret är mulet but warm and it also blows from the sea, the waves have white backs and the ferry has good speed, about 17 knots.
Just before half past eight, after four stops on the island, I get off at the seaside resort of Tekek, which is also something of a capital on the island.
After about half an hour of searching, I find a cheap hotel complex, Coral Reef, which consists of small cottages instead of hotel rooms and the beach is only about ten meters away.
After a shower in semi–cold but refreshed shower water, I head to the only street there is and enter a Chinese restaurant.
I was hungry like a wolf and order fried rice and a meat dish called Sizzling Iron Plate according to the menu and it tastes delicious.
Before I head back to my little cottage I bought a large Coke with me because what the camping has to offer they have tripled up the price a little too much.
Good Night
// P-G, The Global Cyclist
Meeting with Marcus from Canada
Last day in January 2019
I get up halv past eight, short shower and then breakfast. Packing the bike with my panniers and returns a small bag with remotecontrols för TV and aircondition. Had deported 50 ringgit for that.
09:40 I´m sitting on my SLHT heading south. The weather is quite cool for Southeast Asia, the sun is behinde some clouds, I have tailwind and the traffic is sparse.
After 20 km I see a touring biker coming from right, that he is a touring cyclist, I can tell from his bike and panniers. He has same model as my self, a Surley Long Haul Trucker.
We stop and starting a chat, his name is Marcus and his surname sound like he came from Finland…
– No, the name came from my father, he is an Estonian and my mom from UK and my self is canadian he said
We desided to do company to Mersing, a medium-sized city smal around 130 km south.
The road is mostley flat and still the traffic is sparse.
Backpacker place with cheap and cosy room to rent
My selt in front of a wall painting in Kuala Rompin
We spent a night in a cheap 2 star hotel in Kuala Rompin
Today distance | 87,4 km | Travel time | 04:21 h.m | Total time | 06:04 h.m |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Max speed | 28,3 km/h | Medium speed | 20,1 km/h | ||
Max temp | 58,0 °C | Average temp | 38.7 °C | Min temp | 21,0 °C |
I wake up to the Huawei alarm that sounds at 06.15, outside it’s pitch black but the traffic and especially the motorcycles are on the way.
After the shower I’m a breakfast of yogurt, bread and sliced cheese.
Then I carry the stuff down and load the bike that is just as I had put it the night before among baskets with dirty laundry and hung and washed sheets.
After some km Marcus stops for his breakfast ata roadside bar. I order Roti Tellur and a coffe. We have tailwind most of the time and Marcus keeping up the pace, 22-25 km/h. In Padang Endau we turn left and cycling after a small road closer to ocean, it´s winding but cozy to ride on.
In many places along the road small houses or cottages, often empty but signs says these are beach resorts, mostly for Malaysian. Foregin tourist prefer the island outside here.
We stops at one of these to refill our water bottles with ice and water. After another 10 -12 km Marcus stops at a top of a hill och pick up a little fun thing from his pannier, I want to get, a droner.
He configures it so that it automatically follows us when we later set off. The road is scenic, no plantations, just green rainforest and on the left side also large mountains that are also covered in green.
Marcus droner shows us cycling
The closer we got to Mersing, the more deforestation for oil plantations we saw.
Here will soon oil plantations starts
Few hours later, just after half past one we both cycling over river Sungai Mersing and entering Mersing and our routs will split. Marcus will visit a friend of his and I had planned for a ferry trip over to isle Puala Tioman. Before we split we shared a easy lunch at a bar middle of town. I order Fish and Chips andf Marcus Mongolian Lamb dish
The ferry departs at 5 pm and we say goodbye to each other after two cycling days together, although who knows, maybe we’ll see you in Borneo. If Markus only finds a sailboat, he will go across. He has one goal with his journey now and that is to avoid engines. I him for that
Today distance | 74,7 km | Travel time | 03:56 h.m | Total time | 09:22 h.m |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Max speed | 40,5 km/h | Medium speed | 19,0 km/h | ||
Max temp | 54,0 °C | Average temp | 35,9 °C | Min temp | 28,0 °C |
See Yeah later
// P-G, The Global Cyclist
Resting day in Pekan
I sleppt until 10 a.m, eat some breakfast and then packing my backpack with my shimano shoes and head to the shoemaker I found yesterday inside a large market building, Bazar Muhibbah.
At the front of the toe cap there is an incipient small opening that could collect dirt, sand and gravel and then there is a risk that the shoes will not last long.
An old man with big smile took a short look at my shoes and said….
– I´ll fix it, come back after lunch.
I walked back into the city center and drop in at a cafe, checked tomorrow’s bike route south. Before I turned back to the shoemaker I also bought bread, yoghurt and sausages in a supermarket.
When I get back to the cobbler, my shoes are ready on the counter. For his job he wants 15 ringgit (MYR), about 32-33 SEK.
While the shoes were at the shoemaker’s, the seamstress in the store next door had fixed my cycling pants. At the left leg the seam had released around the reinforcement band so now it is also fixed.
– How much for your help I asked her?
– Free for You she replied with a great smile
Rest of the day I just walk about in the city and did nothing…
…and on my way back to my hotel I stopped at a Take Away bar for a Roti Tellur.
At 11 pm I thought it was time to go to bed. Fifty-six miles (90 km) on the bike tomorrow requires being a bit rested!. I put the earbuds in my ear and listen to SR.
Fell into sleep quite fast. Tomorrow a bike trip by the coastline to Kula Rompin
See Yeah Later
// P-G, The Global Cyclist
Palmoil plantations
The further south I go, the more oil palm plantations I see. Many are already established and completed plantations, others are growing and new areas are being cleared for more plantations.
Today, Indonesia and Malaysia together account for 85 percent of the global amount of palm oil produced.
For many in rural Malaysia, palm oil is a vital part of their economy. They often have nothing else to support themselves and their families.
Sadly, the environmentally sustainable palm oil plantations are a drop in the ocean. We in the rich world can do a lot to save the environment
and wildlife in Malaysia and Indonesia by demanding organic plantations.
This would help both the rural population and the wildlife, especially the endangered Orangutans.
Rest of my cycling south and to Pekan at the eastcoast was quite easy but very hot and humid. No problems to pitch up my tent and the roads was good.
Malaysia seems to be investing in tourism.
I passes several new hotel and tourism resorts and I understand them because it is a nice country to stay in. No problems with language communication, good beaches, nature experiences and nice people. Malaysia is an Islam country, sunni, but constitutionally a secular state. Therefore, other religions can be practiced legally, although religious freedom is still limited in Malaysia.
The fact that I have the rainforest all around me is hard to avoid. Some road signs let me know.
Late afternoon I cycled into Pekan and I already has planned to stay here two nights.
Found a cheap hotel, Pekan Budget Hotel middle of town and by the Pahang river.Only 200 meters to city center.
Firts thing I did after checked in was to jump into the shower. Tomorrow rest day and I will search for a shoemaker.
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Today distance | 113,2 km | Travel time | 06:37 h.m | Total time | 08:55 h.m |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Max speed | 43,8 km/h | Medium speed | 16,7 km/h | ||
Max temp | 41,0 °C | Average temp | 32.2 °C | Min temp | 24,0 °C |
See Yeah later
// P-G, The Global Cyclist
Leaving Cameron Highland and Tanah Rata for heading southeast
January 25
Time for me to leave this highlands for lower part of Malysia. My plan is to cycle souhteast to Pekan and then by the coastline to Johor Baharu, the border control into Singapore.
At 7,30 am I sitting ouside the hotel at the bar and eating breakfast, sausage, white beans, toasts, juice and black coffe. The weather forcast has told sun will shine during forenoon but then cloudy but no rain.
First 15 km mostly downwards and the road down to Ringlet is lined with several places that offer tea drinking, tea buying, beekeeping visits and the mountainsides covered with tea plantations.
It´s green everywhere and surrandings are more than beautiful, it´s breathtaking! After almost an hour I heading Ringlet. Here I turn left against Sungao Koyan on road 102.
The teaplantations has been replaced with huge of flowernurseries, mountain slopes are covered with plastic-roofed greenhouses, km after km. Trucks leaving and loaded with flowers, probably for export.
The geography is still downhill, but there are many small, short uphills to fight. Late afternoon, around 4 pm I stopped outskirt center of Sungai Koyan at a small bar for evening dinner, rice, chicken, vegestable but no beer. Here is it muslim tradition to follow. When I left is was still around 30 °C in the air and very humid. Another 15 km before I pitch up my tent beside the road.
Before I sleept I pick up a halfcold beer from my foodbag, drank it and then listning at a downloaded radioprogran, ”era of the spies”
Falling into sleep very fast
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Today distance | 110,4 km | Travel time | 06:08 h.m | Total time | 08:30 h.m |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Max speed | 54,4 km/h | Medium speed | 18,0 km/h | ||
Max temp | 47,0 °C | Average temp | 35.3 °C | Min temp | 21,0 °C |
See Yeah Later
//P-G, The Global Cyclist
Tough ride to Tanah Rata, day two
January 22
I wake up when the alarm sounds and get ready for today’s climb, which I already know is mostly uphill among crooked but divinely beautiful roads.
It was a problem to take the bike back on the road, the slope of the ditch was higher on this side and I had to invoke all the forces that existed.
Then get on the bike and pedal on, slowly, slowly and have to steer the bike between the worst hills.
About 6–7 km here Kampung Raja, the sign shows that I should turn right towards Cameron Highland. Now I get terrible downhill slopes instead, some are on the verge of dangerous.The area I am now in consists instead of rainforest of hundreds of gigantic tents that in some cases occupy an entire valley. There are nurseries for all kinds of plants, vegetables and fruits.
It actually looks a bit grotesque with all these tents. The places are called for example Lavender valley, Rose valley etc.
After a few good downhill runs, I get to climb again and the communities appear at regular intervals and I reach Brinchang, Cameron Highland’s second largest city after a tiring climb.
I seriously consider staying here but decide to continue up to Tanah Rata, the largest town in Cameron Highland. After a tiring climb of about 3 km, I arrive at Tanah Rata which means, flat ground in Malay.
Now I’m at the top of Cameron Highland, and if you stay after the main road and it feels liberating then I know that down to Pekan on the east coast it’s mostly downhill or completely flat.
When I arrive, the sun is shining and the thoroughfare is jam–packed with cars. The hotels are standing like rods on the hill and I walk into Plamters Hotel which is located by the thoroughfare and booked three nights.
I’ve planned to visit the surroundings which are more beautiful than all the beautiful things I’ve seen in a long time, that’s three nights.
I also have time to perceive that there are plenty of tourists here but never show up at anyone who speaks Swedish.
If I’m tired?… Completely exhausted, I feel like an empty, damp bag that is crumpled up and even though the heat today has been like a Swedish high summer day only.
Today distance | 38,3 km | Travel time | 03:22 h.m | Total time | 04:35 h.m |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Max speed | 57,1 km/h | Medium speed | 11,2 km/h | ||
Max temp | 26 °C | Average temp | 23,5 °C | Min temp | 20 °C |
See Yeah Later
// P–G, The Global Cyclist 1719
Tough cycling to Tanah Rata
Yesterday I did nothing, just walking about and visit the market. I also fixed my wristwatch, the chain link had broken and it cost me nothing.
This day started well, good breakfast and easy cycling. The road is winding and the surroundings are full of plantations.
Just before Batu Gajah I meet a happy Malaysian gang on a bike. As usual, they want to take some selfies and I don’t say no. Most have some kind of mountain bike, hybrid bike and one of them has a Fatbike, they are all going to Batu Gajah.
The road continues fairly flat but the plantations of oil palms and bananas remain. I also see started oil palm plantations and it doesn’t look nice.
Eventually after 35 km I arrive at Simpang Pulaj and there I stop just after the exit at a street bar. It seems very popular because it is almost full and the staff runs shuttles between the tables, the kitchen and the dishes.
I was´nt hungry but coffee and two ice–filled glasses of Cameron Highland tea, which tasted lovely in the heat.
Then off and now the heat has come to some kind of peak, because it feels like you’re sitting in front of a fireplace and also the climb begins and it becomes both to work uphill with the pedals and to steer the bike uphill when it’s steepest.
I had planned to fill up with water in the next village, Pos Slim but for some reason I miss the turn–off.
It will be to continue to fight uphill and my thoughst and hope is that there will be some small stall along the road where I can fill up or buy water. Unfortunately I am disappointed, not a single village or shop and I do not have much water left, barely half a liter.
After 50 km I arrive at a waterfall, Sinju Fall, river Raya and I park the bike at the guardrail and walk down towards the waterfall. I sit down at the edge of the stream on some rocks and take off everything except my shorts and T–shirt and crawl into the water which despite the current was quite warm.
Here I sit for probably half an hour and enjoy the surroundings and the cooling off before I get on my Long Haul Trucker for more climbing upwards!
Half past three the rain comes, not much but a little more than drizzle and it feels liberating. The heat drops drastically The heat drops drastically which I do not oppose.
The road continue upwards km after km, not very steep but still upwards. The heat and humidity force me to do some small stops.
At one of these I get a tip from to guys, roadworkes to fill water from a pipe that water flows from the rock. First I was suspicious but the water looks very clean, tastes good and I was in dire need of refilling my bottles so I’m taking a chance.
After replenishing, I just have to continue the diabolical climb uphill and unfortunately there are also few places where I can camp.
An opportunity arises after one of many slopes, an electric power station that is open and has paved surfaces. This place will fit my needs I thought.
I steered the bike in and was just about to lock the bike to one of the masts stanchion when I discover that the place is a giant haunt for spiders.
No small spiders either, some are dm big, and many they are also, maybe a hundred of them.
I left the place quickly to find a less spider–popular spot. The surroundings especially on my left side just get more and more powerful and the mists from the rain rising up towards the mountain tops make it a bit dramatic views.
Next attempt at a large green area above the road where there are also a number of small houses, mostly similar to barracks, but with some nice green areas around but two old ladies and an elderly gentleman just waving their hands in the negative and I understand that they do not want any tented Scandinavians.
It is now just after half past six and it is hurrying to find a suitable place before darkness falls, but it does not look good.
On the right side of the road only slopes upwards and dense rainforest, on the left it plunges straight down hundreds of meters. The small green area that exists is occupied by the road barriers.
Just before 6 pm I saw two distance signs, one on the left side and the other on the opposite side and here there is room for my tent and the sign pole will be perfect to lock up for my bike.
The problem was to take the bike from the road down into the ditch and up the other side, it will be difficult but it is possible.
At 7 pm my tent was pitched up, a half–cold beer and two loaves of bread with sausages. Then I plug in the earbuds as usual and listen to one of many downloaded SR programs.
My program of choice tonightis about a gang, the Blekingegade gang in Denmark that belongs to KAK, Kommunistisk Arbejdskreds that carries out lots of mail robberies to send the money to the PFLP, the Popular Front for the Liberation of Palestine.
Outside, the trucks thunder past and I could hear that it’s hard for them too. I’ve set the alarm for 07:15 because tomorrow will also be pretty hard. Have about 40 km left to Cameron Highland and to the top of the mountain.
Today distance | 66,3 km | Travel time | 05:41 h.m | Total time | 08:24 h.m |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Max speed | 39,7 km/h | Medium speed | 11,7 km/h | ||
Max temp | 40 °C | Average temp | 32 °C | Min temp | 26 °C |
Seea Yeah Later
// P-G, The Global Cyclist 1719
The heat almost kill me
I wake up just before 8, the traffic has kept me half asleep since maybe half past six. Before I leaft the hotel, I asked for hot water for coffee, it will be my breakfast today in the morning.
Then carry all the stuff down, pack the bike and pull away around 10 past nine. Getting out of Kamunting is no problem. Just follow the thoroughfare for three or four km and then turn left and keep an eye out for signs that show Ipoh.
When I arrive in Taiping, I hade two choices, take the right road towards Kuala Kangsar or straight ahead along road 60 towards Beruas.
It will be the last option, although I don’t really know why, it just turned out that way.
The road is crooked and surrounded by oil palm and banana plantations. The traffic is sparse and the road is good but I can’t get rid of the heat!
There will be a few stops for water and ice refills. In George Town at Abu Garcia I bought a new waterproof bag to keep food and drinks in, have also thought about begging or buying crushed ice in plastic bags as cooling. Almost every roadside vendor always has a box of ice bags. Works pretty well, keeps the water reasonably cold almost a whole bike day. I’m thinking of covering the bag inside with aluminum foil, but that will have to be a later operation.
The further into the day I get, the heat increases and when it also stops blowing completely, it sometimes becomes almost unbearable.At half past two I cycle into Beruas and stop at a lunch restaurant along the thoroughfare with the Chinese–sounding name Kong Heng.
Lunch in Beruas
The restauran was almost full booked. I order the simplest from the menu, fried rice, chicken pieces and tomatoes.
Continuing after 40 minutes of lunch, follow road number 73 and later along the Sungai Perak River towards Parit.
A few small stops to shade yourself from the sun and some water refill. The road is still curvy and the plantations never end.
But it’s a fun road to ride on, always exciting to see what shows up after the next corner. In front of me I also see the mountains that I have to cross or through to get to Cameron Highland.
It will be a challenge that is good enough. Graphhopper Maps, another map app I have on my phone, has drawn up that it will be climbing for just over 70 km!
The area is awesome green and beautiful and known for its tea plantations so I just have to experience this. It will take as long as it takes.
There will be a last stop and a wet cold towel over your head about 10 km here from Parit. Stop at a large tree that provides some shade. The ice in the bag comes in handy now, wet the towel as best I can and put it over my head.
I arrive at Parit just before half past six pm and feel worn out much like the day before yesterday. Staying at the city’s only hotel, which is located on the Sungai Perak River.
Later in the evening I took a round in the neighbourhood.
Today’s distance: 83.0 km Travel time: 05.02 a.m. Total time: 07.25 t.m
Maximum speed: 44.4 km/h Average speed: 16.5 km/h
Max temp: 43 0 °C Medium temp: 37 0 °C Min temp: 27 0 °C
See Yeah Later
// P-G, The Global Cyclist