20 November

Wike upp 07.30 am and loaded my bicycle for todays tour and heading Porvenir. The brakfast is served at 08:30 and I’m alone . Coffe, two warm sandwiches, two pancakes with jam and glas of juice. Todays sunshine has switched over to rain and grey sky,
My plan is to head for Porvenir from where the ferry boat over to Punta Arena depart,  First 35 km easy cycling on concret surface road. Then I came to a Y-junction. Here I must stop because there is two different roads to Prorvenir, a short one and a longer one.

At this Y-intersection, there’s also a small shelter for cyclists and others to take cover from rain and wind. The shelter is filled with text on the walls and stickers from all corners of the world.

After some consideration and advice from a passing motorist, I choose the Y-71 road, the shorter option.

What I didn’t have a full grasp of was the road’s quality and length. It was a gravel road not worth the name, full of holes, stones, loose gravel, and completely devoid of any semblance of service. It bounces and shakes all the time, and the crosswind makes it difficult to maintain balance. Additionally, there are quite a few challenging hills.

This area must be a solitary paradise. Light years between houses and no shops and other services!!

I persevere in the crosswind and over the bumps. After exactly 77.61x km, I meet a touring cyclist from Ecuador. We chat a bit, and I find out that he’s headed to San Sebastian and has no tent with him. It will be a tough journey for him; he started in Porvenir and has already cycled over 60 km.

I continue my pedaling and reach a junction, and there’s another shelter for cyclists, called Circuito de Oro. A couple is already there, and I join them. They’re from Australia; his name is Alan, and hers is Alie. They are headed to Ushuaia and then flying home. They plan to stay at this shelter tonight.

I have some snacks and an energy drink. The view from here down to Ushuaia Bay is truly magical.

After about 45 minutes, I continue for another 7-8 km before setting up camp above a number of metal sheds that I guessed were for fishermen. Two larger open boats confirm this.

While setting up the tent, I hear barking, and they come towards me at first a bit cautiously. But then their joy spreads, and so does mine.

I continue preparing for the night, and for dinner, it’s boiled rice, ham, boiled egg, tomatoes, and a non-alcoholic beer… Coffee and cookies before I crawl into my Marmot sleeping bag.

I am completely exhausted, mostly mentally.

Distans: 93 km
Average Speed: 14,0 km/h
Max Speed: 35,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,37 h/m
Total Time:09:59 h/m
Medium Temp: 06,0 C
Max Temp: 13,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C

See Yeah
 P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

19 November

Out side the sun is shining and today I will take me to the Chile border at San Sebastian around 95 km . Mostley flat road. So far the roads are totaly lost of bars, cafe and shops, just a few hoses and  nothing much to see.
My first 15 km complete straight and sidewind.

Joyfully, the wind changed and became pleasant, like a tailwind, allowing me to maintain a speed of 23-23 km/h. There were, of course, some hills, but they weren’t too challenging. After about 40 km, I encounter a couple with the same cycling gear as mine… Touring cyclists.

We stop and exchange words. They are a couple from Belgium, and the girl named Fina has a trailer behind her, so I ask,

 – What’s it like to have a child with you?

 – It’s not a child but a dog!!

The belgian couple with the dog ollie

I’m completely excited with curiosity, and they open the trailer. Out jumps a black and white dog of an unknown breed, but it’s as happy as can be. She responds to Ollie, and they adopted her in Peru. She is 8 months old. I get some tips on entering Chile, as well as how the glaciers in El Calafate are to visit…

 – Don’t miss this, the guy says.

After about 20 minutes, we go our separate ways, I towards San Sebastian and the Belgian couple towards Rio Grande. The weather during the day is sunny but quite chilly. The only thing that surprises me is when I manage to startle some Guanacos, which run away and have no problem jumping high like a horse.

In the late afternoon, the wind changes back and forth between side, head, and tailwinds.

Around half-past four, I reach the Argentine control, also called San Sebastian. I stop at the small café for coffee and a muffin.

Argenina border at San Sebastian

No problems getting through. From here to the Chilean border and their San Sebastian is barely 14 km.

Here, there’s a bit more control, checking passports and other documents. I also have to fill out a form mostly for administrative reasons.

I stop at the border control, which has a room serving as the only restaurant.

Now I am in my 30th country during this Global Bike Journey that I started on April 1, 2017, and 39th overall if I count all my other bike trips.

Distans: 94 km
Average Speed: 15,3 km/h
Max Speed: 39,1 km/h
Cycling Time:06:08 h/m
Total Time:07;59 h/m
Medium Temp: 12,0 C
Max Temp: 21,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C

See Yeah
P-G

// The Global Cyclist 1726

17-19 NovemberMy first 15 km was easier then I expected and no probs to get out of Ushuaia, Google Maps told me around 100 km to Tolhuin and also made clear I need to do some climbing. Could be better weather, the rain pooring down from start.
While I pedaling I listen to a download podcast about a robbery of a value transport in Umeå in 2009.

After about hour and a half Google’s prediction proved to be spot-on with great success.
First some smaller climbings but then up, up and up through Garibaldi Pass and the rain still pooring down. Some parts of the uphill, I had to jump of from the bike and push it.

Half way uo i was needed to refill water

At least I was on the very top and first ting I saw  was a portal and a pointing view övr Lago Escondido.

After some photos I jumped on my bicyle and took me down. Before I left a touruíst guide informed me that a bar and restaurant was open and lies at the end of the lake.

Garibaldi Pass viewpoint laje down is Lago Escondido

Previously, I had felt that the handlebars were loose and while I’m cycling down it’s get worse. I stoped at the bar which was almost occupied by others and  order coffe and two fried eggs.

I also had the opportunity to dry my gloves, hat, and rain gear by a cast-iron stove that stood in the middle of the room.

From here to Tolhuin it was about 50 km. The head and sidewind has lost most of it’s power and I could hold quite a good speed. No villages after the road just a few small houses. The surrandings is wide open and barren, with short grass, small bushes, and gray dead trees that I got to experience.
After another 20 km sidewind came back and my speed decreased a lot and I also felt tired like hell. Two km before Tolhuin a pickup car stoped me and told me to follow him. He had a offer for me, I followed him and he took me to a big and fresh cafe, Panadería La Union middle of Tolhuin  and asked me to wait.

The cafe owner came out and welcomed me, offering a bed at no cost. He asked me to steer the bike to the back, then guided me into an adjacent building, a storage and bakery. In the basement, there were three beds. It wasn’t a three-star accommodation, but it had a roof over my head, and I avoided the rain. He also gave me the opportunity to take a shower! I didn’t say no.

After my shower I went back to the gigant cafe and order coffe and two cookies

A popular Cafe in Tolhuin

Distans: 92,5 km
Average Speed: 14,3 km/h
Max Speed: 69,4 km/h
Cycling Time:07,43 h/m
Total Time:08:12 h/m
Medium Temp: 03,0 C
Max Temp: 10,0 C
Min Temp: 02,0 C

I slept quite well despite some tingling sensations in the legs. Before I left i visit the cafe for a last time for coffe and a huge sandwich with cheese and ham. I also said goodby to cafe owner.

My trip to Rio Grande is about 110 km but I’ve seen the road is not so hilly.
Weather is quite good, no rain and not so chilly. Best of all I have headwind which means
that I could maintain about 19-22 km per hour.

The road and surroundings are empty and desolate, not much in terms of buildings.
The only company I got is just cows, horses, sheeps and very shy Ilamas. I the afternoon wether
change and become more windy, esspecially from the sides.

Around 5:45 PM it was not more then 10 km left but it was like hell, wind from head and side,
industrals buildnings, traffic lights every 100 meters and no centro in my sight.

17:45 I was in town,Rio Grande tired and bored.

Tomorrow I will head for the border into Chile and Google has described the route as flat, which is also evident in the graph.

Distans: 110,87 km
Average Speed: 18,3 km/h
Max Speed: 52,8 km/h
Cycling Time:06,01 h/m
Total Time:07:54 h/m
Medium Temp: 05,0 C
Max Temp: 20,0 C
Min Temp: 1,0 C

See yeah Later
P-G

//The Global Cyclist 1726

 

17 November

Woke up 05:10 and started to prepare my cycling towards Rio Grande. Outside it’s raining ”cats and dogs” so this day starts wet.

Check up weather forcast and it seems to be cold and rainy for many days… that’s the fact, just facing the reality.

My weather forcast prognos 14 days from now

While I’m writing this post wating for the staff to bring breakfast. What so ever I’m positiv
to rooling out from Ushuia and get north.

My route first couple of days

See Yeah Later
P-G

//The Global Cyclist 1726

Woke up at 6 and tried to go back to sleep again but no success. Get dressed and made some coffe in the kitchen. Outside the ground is white and snow mixed with rain in the air and the temperature shows 7 °C… No time for shorts.

Snow, rain and 6 C

Around 8 they serve breakfast, egg, musli, milk, breaad, jam and coffe. After that I started to finísh with assembly of the bike, bag holders and handlebar bag.

To cycle downtown is easy, mostly dowards,  more specifically very downwards, slope between 10 and 20 %. After some hundred meters I regret I left my gloves in the room. It’s very chilly. Cycling around and stoped

When I heard people shouting and manifesting loudly, the entire street was completely blocked by hundreds of blue-white flags with the ATE logo. It’s definitely a demonstration for fair wages.

 Ushuais demonstrate for fair wages and better conditions at workplaces

I stoped for a while and listen to speachers and drums and warm up my hands over a fire.Then I joined a coffeplace and open my Google maps I had prepared. Find out my first goalRio Grande is 210 km north and a little bit steepy!,especially from the beginning.It’s goona be no problem to stay warm.

Altidute profile to Rio Grande

Ushuaia relies on tourism. Banks, coffeshops, souvenirs, tourism agencys, and lots of shops selling outdoors equipments and clothes. Not a singe grocery shops like ICA,Coop or WiLLYS. Despite the tourism relies the english skills is quite bad.

Another thing, it’s also quite expensive, a medium coffe around 39-40 SEK, for a sandwich you need to pay 75-100 SEK.
Google and Trading Economics tells that inflation Rate in Argentina increased to 142.70 % in October so it’s understandably why people demonstrate. Something strange, all prices has a $ symbol

As I went back up, I felt my gears jump back and forth. I have to fix this tomorrow thats for sure. I also must check up how easy or difficult to use cards up north or  how much I need to withdrawal local currency.

See Yeah later
P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

 

 

13 November

My flight from Istanbul departs just a few minutes late, at 10:30, heading to Buenos Aires with a passenger and refueling stop in São Paulo.

It’s a long, very long journey. During the flight to São Paulo, I watch three movies, some CNN, and BBC news.

No problems until Buenos Aires.

Tail view and landing at Buenos Aires

First, I saw a man with a sign bearing my name, and he told me I needed to retrieve my luggage and check it in again tomorrow. At Arlanda, I was told not to worry about my luggage until Ushuaia. Now, I have a bad feeling about having to pay again for baggage!

The other problem is a very inefficient passport control, more than 1 hour before my turn. The officer, a young girl with purple streaks in her hair, asks me…

– Where do you stay in Buenos Aires?
I told her that I think it is unnecessary as my connecting flight will leave at 06:35 the next morning.

– How long will you stay in Argentina?
I explained my itinerary, and also that it’s impossible to know exactly.

She asks me to follow her into the office where three officials work in front of computers. She hands over my passport and my printed online ticket to a bearded man in shabby clothes.

After twenty minutes, he starts asking me the same questions I’ve already answered. He also wants to know my hotel in Ushuaia. I gave him the name and address, and he went back to his computer to enter some information.

After that, I got my passport and online ticket back. I took my luggage and head to the X-ray machine. I also find out where to check in tomorrow and then a place for a simple meal and rest.

Sexteen hours in the air and I’m tired
See Yeah
P-G
//The Global Cyclist1 1726