I stayed some extra days in Coyhaique because to manage my pollen allergy. I had medicin for that but it don’t have effect immediate. So I celebrate New Years eve here and just relaxed and watch some Icehockey.

January 1 – 2024

Leaving Coyhaique on the first day of the new year, and the sun is shining. The first mile is on paved road, then I opt for a shorter route towards Villa Ortega and Manhuales.

Pointing view over Coyhaique and river Simpson

This is Carretera Austral from Start in north to end in South and Villa O Higgins

After a few kilometers, I wonder if it was a wise choice.It’s a gravel road, and a poorly maintained one at that. At times, I can barely maintain speed, and the traffic is quite dense until 2:00 PM. The dust is swirling, forcing me to stop and turn my back when being overtaken or encountering oncoming traffic.

More gravelroad, never stops…!

The last 9 km before Villa Ortega transition from gravel to cemented and paved road, and at the same time, the views become truly extraordinary.

Paved rod for 9 km, Yippi Ki Yeah

I reach a small village, Villa Ortega, and find an open minimarket. I inquire about coffee and am invited into some kind of living room, where I also get to taste homemade cookies… for free.

Shortly before 3:00 PM, I continue towards Villa Manhuales.

Rivers, creeks, gravelroad and huge mountains.
That’s what I face every day in recent weeks. One becomes completely stunned by all the views.

Aming to arrive there just before 7:30 PM. I have 32 km of gravel road left before hitting paved road again. The positive side is the beauty all around, and the distance is somewhat downhill. I encounter some resilient cyclists struggling uphill towards Villa Ortega.

Can’t stop to be impressed of Chile surranding

When the GPS shows 57 km, I see large green traffic signs ahead, and I have now reached the intersection where paved road becomes a reality once again. With 13 km remaining, my schedule seems to be holding. Additionally, it feels liberating to loosen my grip on the handlebars.

7:20 pm I arrivde into Villa Manuales and the sun was still warm and the air cozy

The weather is wonderfully pleasant in the afternoon, and I can even hum a few Swedish summer songs. I find a campsite quite quickly and set up the tent while the sun is still warming. The tent fabric is slightly damp from the morning, so it’s nice to get it dry.

70 km today, and 46 of them on gravel.

Take care, and we’ll be in touch.

P-G //

The Global Cyclist 1726

 

I found one restaurant in Coyhaique which had open for christms dinner so I decided to join their menu. 8.30 pm I stepped into a hotel, Casino Dreams and on the third floor a huge restaurant, prepered table with white tablecloths, christmas decorations, glass, and cutlery.

Casino Dreams, casino, hotel and restaurant

I chose their Christmas buffet, which was something special and very tasty.

Short brief of christmas menu

Arroz Exotieo
Exotic rice

Ensalada del Chef
Chef Sallad

Colo com pimientos
Coló with peppers

Pulpa al olivo
Olive pulp

Apio con esparrados
Celery with spreads

Crostinis de vacuno eon salsa del pio
Beef crostinis with pio sauce

Ceviche de reineta
Reineta ceviche

Crostinis de gueso crema Y vacuno
Cream cheese and beef crostinis

Salmon en erustada de camaron y salsa espejo de jaiba cremosa …..
Salmon in shrimp erustada and creamy crab mirror sauce

Papas Danphinoise
Gratin dauphinoi
and then some deer barbeque

Not: Google has helped me to translate and describe the menu from spanish. I was not able to that!

I also had the opportunity to use the grill where venison roast was available.

Finished with their dessert table. After almost two hours I was done.

Desert table

On my plate

Returning to my campsite very satisfied

Felice Navidad
P-G
//The Global Cycluist 1726

21-23 December

It’s a privilege to witness what I’ve experienced on this journey so far. Patagonia can be harsh when the wind blows from all directions, and there’s nothing providing shelter. Carretera Austral, the road from Villa O’Higgins to Puerto Montt, is mostly just a very rough gravel road and not particularly enjoyable, but it’s part of this type of cycling adventure.

At the foot of the Andes lie large lakes like Lago Argentino, Lago O’Higgins, Lago Viedma, and many others, along with rivers and waterfalls.

The route from Cochrane to Coyhaique started with a seriously bad gravel road for 35-40 km, with hardly
any flat roadretches, but the views were something else.

Rio Baker floats down below

I’ve never experienced anything like it—each view more beautiful than the last, small picturesque and cozy villages, some offering camping and shopping opportunities. After the first day, the gravel road became somewhat more normal, and I could significantly increase my speed, though the steep hills still remained.

I also meet or been overtaking by two other cyclist who has same goal I my self… Not common

More nerds then me cycling south to north.

Lago Buenos Aires at Puerto Rio Tranquilo

I Puerto Rio Tranquilo stop for coffe and sandwich and a short trip to the beach or shore to view some strange formation nature and the water has created

Puerto Rio Tranquilo and Catedral de Mármol

Compared to the landscape between Ushuaia and Puerto Natales in Patagonia, this part is green, lush, and incredibly beautiful. Traffic is quite sparse, and they drive calmly, making the bike journey feel safe. In Villa Cerro Castillo, located by Río Ibáñez, there’s a backpackers’ camping site that I’m using, and across the street, there’s a cafe serving excellent coffee.

Camp Villa Cerro Castillio and mountain Cerro Castillio in background

Thanks to Carretera Austral, tourism in the area has increased, and Cerro Castillo National Park has become a popular destination. The weather is sunny and pleasantly warm, and the weather forecast promises the same for the day after Christmas.

After over 210 km, the gravel road ends, and I get to ride on paved roads the rest of the way to Coyhaique, allowing for even more speed. Five or six miles before Coyhaique, cattle fields spread out like prairies—endlessly large, green, and flat.

Grazeland before Coyhaique

I arrive in town just after 3 in the afternoon, and I’ve already found my camping spot, El Camping, only 600 meters from the central parts.

Coyhaique mountain

Before heading to the campsite, I take a stroll into the lively city center. The first thing I notice is a large grocery chain, Unimark.

As I navigate my bike among pedestrians and market stalls, I faintly hear voices and a way of speaking that increases my pulse.

At the next crosswalk, I ask outright,
 – Do you speak Swedish?
A couple in their mid-30s to mid-40s turns around and answers,

–

Maria and her partner

 – Yes, we do

My pulse increases even more because it’s a rarity to meet Swedes.

We chat for a while, and the woman, named Maria, from Dalarna but living in Stockholm, suggests that we meet later in the evening for a beer or two. We exchange WhatsApp numbers, and I feel a certain joy. We’ll catch up later to decide on the time.

Down to left beside the bridge over Rio Simpson lies El Camping ( Pic from El Camping website)

I then go and buy a cup of coffee at a nearby café and later head to Unimark for some provisions. Holy grail what a commerce. Shopping carts are more than full. it doesn’t seem like the Chileans have as bad an economy as Google reports or…? Like in Sweden time like this, Christmas.

After that, I make my way down to the camping site by Rio Simpson, and the descent is steep, seriously steep, with a gradient of 10-14%.

El Camping , my tent camp Coyhaique ( Pic from El Camping website)

The camping site is green with large grassy areas and trees.

There’s water at every site, showers, toilets, and a large dining room but no kitchen. However, I have access to a refrigerator and freezer. I plan to stay here for a few nights; it’s Christmas, and it doesn’t feel so pleasant to cycle during the holiday, plus I have plenty of time, Haven’t I…?

I’ll share more later.

P-G //The Global Cyclist 1726

 

21 December
Day before Day before Christmas Eve

While I been camping here in Cochran I’ve seen other cyclists also with panniers but not so heavy loaded like my bicycle so I decided to do anything about it.
What do I need every day, what Can I avoid and buy later?

DO I need three trousers and jackets plus rain cloth and some shirts and T-shirts?

Is it necessary to carry around three hard drives when you can use USB memorys for 500 GB?

Does it also make sense to have three maps in the handlebar bag when there’s Maps.Me, Locus, and Google Maps to use?

No, No and No.

I put out all my gears and stuff on the lawn and made six different piles. Four pannier piles, one North Face bag pile and the sixth one for equipment to send home!

It became 8,9 kilogram and lots of space over in the panniers and bag and much easier to manage.

Why is’ so hard to learn that you never need all stuff you pack? It’s typical of me, ”might be good to have just in case… etc.”

Merry Christmas from Chile

See Yeah Later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

16 – 18 December

Villa o Higgins – Cochrane

I wake up half an hour before my Motorola moto (g30) has woken up. Going out to the communal kitchen and preparing breakfast. Muesli, yogurt, eggs, bread with cheese and ham comb then coffee.

The weather outside is sunny just as the campsite owner had promised. In addition to this, he had also promised a gravel road for 230 km!

First 30-35 km road quite OK and beautifu, with breathtaking views of lakes, Lago Cisnes, Vargas and no problem to get water.

Lago Cisnes

Streams, rivers and waterfalls overflow. The problem is the road, or the forest road. Bumps, holes. Loose stones are what I have to fight against.

In addition, a grader has started scraping the road, leaving piles of gravel in the middle of the road, to the left or to the right. No kidding. Cannot maintain a higher average speed than 11-12 km per hour.

The sun is shining from an almost clear blue sky and the mountains around me tower up gigantic with their white peaks

After 45 km there will be a stop for late lunch, soup, bread and coffee and to the sound of a mighty waterfall, Puente de Luna.

Lunch Break at Puente de Luna

Continues stubbornly pedaling and fighting against the cruel gravel road. There will be many short stops. In addition
to this, a number of difficult hills that I have to steer the bike up. On one of the downhills, Tom and Sarah from the UK
ave caught up with me and we talk a bit and at the same time fill up the water bottles. Shortly thereafter, Tom and Sarah
stop at a roofed shelter that appears to be newly built.

Sarah and Tom at their overnight place

They intend to spend the night here. It’s just after half past six and my GPS shows that I’ve cycled 62 km.

Sarah and Tom are very special people. Mischievous, generous and especially Tom seems to care about others… I really like them

I continue downhill through the valley and up the next tough hill.

Scenic view

Can’t be better

When I reach the top, I find a patch of grass by the road and the tent is set up. The clock has struck 7 and the GPS has switched to 70 km.

After a late dinner, noodles, hamburgers, bread, beer and a cup of coffee, I fall asleep like a clubbed ox.

Tomorrow 17 I have some easier cycling towards the ferry landing that will take me across Rio Bravo to Puerto Yungay.

Distans: 71,79 km
Average Speed: 09,60 km/h
Max Speed: 38,4 km/h
Cycling Time:07,26 h/m
Total Time:11:41 h/m
Medium Temp: 15,0 C
Max Temp: 25,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C
Total Climbing: 1012 m

December 17

Wake up at 06:15 and it has been minus degrees during the night. My bike cover is covered in ice. First I eat breakfast and then I pack the tent. A few minutes past 8 am I sit on my Brook saddle and roll gently downhill for 3 km. A few small hills, a number of bridges and rivers to cross.

Can’t be better

The road is actually a bit better and above all quite flat.

A few minutes before 11 I see the ferry by the river, also hear some sound signals and the staff waves for me to hurry up. Bikes on board and parks the bike at the back.

The journey over or along the Rio Bravo takes 45 minutes. According to Maps.me there is supposed to be a café at the quay but it is closed.

Ferry arrives Puerto Yungy

Just keep going…. Uphill, uphill and more uphill. Among the hardest things I’ve ever done. The climb is sometimes between 11-14%.

But all slopes have an end and at the top there is a break for crates and Coca-Cola, while I have coffee and take a breather, Tom and Sarah come on their bikes. New talk and they move on. They are going to Tortel and I to Cochran.

If it was diabolically hard uphill, it was all the more beautiful downhill and the views can not be described well enough, must be experienced.

Gravel road when it’s worst

and best

At the bottom a T-junction and the Cochran sign indicates that I should turn right. The sun shines incessantly but the road is just as bad. Another sign shows that I have 101 km to Cochrane, feels hard! I continue for a few more miles before I find, as it seems, an abandoned or closed roadside restaurant with a guest room. It’s almost 8:00 p.m. The grassy areas inside affect my decision, open the gate and pitch the tent. Prepare the same dinner as last night, noodles, burgers and coffee. No beer and then I pass out again like a beaten ox.
Beck’s daughter only has time to read the audiobook I started for a few minutes before my eyes and ears go out.

Tomorrow just under 78 km to much needed rest. The bike needs to be overhauled, problems with loose rear wheel bearings and broken but so far, the handbrake at the front worked.

Distans:81,45 km
Average Speed: 11,20 km/h
Max Speed: 45,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,02 h/m
Total Time:10:05 h/m
Medium Temp: 18,0 C
Max Temp: 32,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C
Total Climbing: 783 m

18 December

A long day’s hard work towards camping in Cochrane and the summer weather continues, as well as the enormously beautiful surroundings. Absolutely magically beautiful.

”Lill Kentha” my friend and travel companion likes the viewI thought I would get some easier cycling today but that didn’t happen if I don’t ignore the first 32 km. I follow Rio Baker for a while and meet a cyclist from the other direction. He mentions that in three hundred meters I will have to show my true colours.
6 km, over three hundred meters of elevation gain I will overcome.

Switch back almost all the way up to the very peak

Lupines grows allso here

Not as steep as I had first thought, but I can cycle longer distances in the lightest gear. Large parts of the road were serpentine roads.

”Lill Kentha” like the view

At the very peak a 45 minutes stop for soap,bread, chees and coffe and ”Lill Kentha” asked to join the view

Then downhill and really bad road, many small steep hills and in one of them there was a crash into the ditch when I tried to keep out of the way of a car from behind. When it’s uphill and bumpy the road is too low to keep a completely straight course and it ended up with ditching and now the brake lever for the front brake didn’t hold anymore. My elbow got a scratch, as did my right knee otherwise OK.

Just before, about 4 km before Cochrane, I thought I saw visions…. Asphalt road, shouted out loud ”Yippee Ki-Yay”

Paved road for 4 km… What… Yippee Ki-Yay

Half past seven after almost 78 km of gravel road on scandalously bad surface, I find with the help of a bicycle policeman a campsite in the middle of ”town”.
Cochrane is a small but nice town

Cozy place with lawns, rose bushes and shy trees. Theree is a kitchen, as well as a toilet and shower. But the heat of
the water was more suitable for polar bears. But a shower is always a shower.

Camp place middle in town

Decide that here it will be a few nights and tomorrow the bike repairman will be found. Likewise, I have to withdraw cash,
which has been virtually impossible since El Calafate.

Distans: 77,25 km
Average Speed: 11,4 km/h
Max Speed: 47,5 km/h
Cycling Time:06,01 h/m
Total Time:08:21 h/m
Medium Temp: 23,0 C
Max Temp: 36,0 C
Min Temp: 03,0 C
Total Climbing: 1118 m

See you later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

My worst 6 km

From the campsite on the northern side of Lago del Desierto, also the Argentine border control, it was only about 20 km to Candelario Mancilla and the Chilean border. Not a long distance, but we had to cross the mountain, through the national park, and that path is mostly empty river and stream ravines. Plus, a lot of elevation gain.

Fighting upwards and wet mud

Just face it, nothing to do but fight the nature

Uphill

I am proud that I managed this, and I have to thank all the training at Friskis and Svettis (F&S) and Studio To Be(S2B)  Örnsköldsvik for this.
But now, looking back, I wouldn’t have wished the challenges, the undone challenge. It was fantastic and devilish at the same time, and the nature experience was incredibly beautiful. It’s amazing to see how nature takes care of everything and ensures that the balance is maintained.

Luckily, especiall for me,  we were three of us – me and a young German couple, Janick and Charlotte – who could help each other at the toughest sections.

Thankfully, no rain and no headwind! If it was tough, the surroundings were even more beautiful, absolutely wonderful, almost magical. Just before 2:00 PM, we reached the Chilean border.

From here, about 15 km to the border control, and it was a gravel road. The first 10 km went fairly well, but the last five km were a brutal, devilish downhill in serpentine form, loose gravel, and large loose stones. No railings, and it dropped hundreds of meters down.

A fall here, and it would be a journey home!… In a bag. Moreover, my brake pads were almost completely worn out!

Downhill like hell and gravelroad with loose stones

Just before 4:00 PM I was down and seeing the blue waters of Lake O’Higgins and the mountains on the other side was an unparalleled experience.
At the border control, Janick, Charlotte, and the two French girls were waiting to have their passports approved. I had to wait for 45 minutes. But no problems, I got my stamp and 90 day to stay whitin Chile whitout ant VISA.

Then a short bike ride of 1.5 km to a campground intended only for bike enthusiasts like me and hikers. A huge green area, Lake O’Higgins below, free-roaming dogs, horses, and mini-pigs. A large shed that we could use as a dining room. There were toilets and showers with hot water. I fell asleep quickly this night.

Campsite Cancelario Mancilla

The weather, was quite good, the sun was shining almost all time. Camped here for two nights because the ferry only departs on Mondays and Thursdays. The departure time depends on the weather. Those of us heading towards Villa O’Higgins find out first at 11:00, then at 10:00, and late Wednesday evening, the camp owner says it departs at 07:00 the next morning.

It turned out that time was incorrect; it left from Villa O’Higgins at 07:00, so we had to wait until shortly before 09:00. The ferry, quite small, had 20 seats.

Waiting for ferry boat at Candeleria Manzilla

Bahia-Bahamondez-ferry-port

Main street Villa O Higgins

The lake, Lago O’Higgins, was extremely choppy, jumping and pounding for over 1 and 3/4 hours. But everything went well. From Bahia Bahamondez, it’s a relatively easy ride to Villa O’Higgins.

My computer room behind a gasstation.Internet was not Europe standard but´the
gasstation has fast and stable connection.

My next goal is Cochrane, about 220 km north of Villa O’Higgins, and then Puerto Montt. Cochrane is, by the way, the only place where you can withdraw cash… So, I’ll stock up on food before I head off.

Take care and see you,
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

December 1
Puerto Natales

Yesterday I did a guided tour round and through the nationalpark Torres del Paine. A whole day with gorgeous and  scenic views never will forget.

Lago Nordensljold

Lago Grey and Ice berg

Monumento Natural Cueva del Milodón

Today I leave Casa Lili and Puerto Natales for heding north west and into Argentina again. My main goal is El Chaltern but my first milestone is El Calafate. Calculate  a week cycling  for this tour. Everything is depend on the weather and by that I mean headwind or crosswind and how much.

Casa Lili and kitchen activities. Nice place and cosy atmospher’

See yeah later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

26-28 November
Punta Arenas – Puerto Natales

Today weather and especially the wind is more accetable, not  perfect, but entirely bikeable. First 10 km upwards through industrial areas. Not much to see. After another 6-7 km I got some tailwind and my speed increased quite good. On my right side strait of Magellan andf I’m very pleased with the wind. When I passded the airport Presidente Carlos Ibáñez del Campo International Airport my route turned little bit west, still pretty flat but now I facing more and more headwind.
I can accept rain, but headwinds and crosswinds are brutal. After 52 km I saw a gasstation with coffe bar which is very unusual outhere so I stopped for coffe and some rest from head and crosswinds. It was necessary!

Outside in the parking lot, a number of car enthusiasts gathered for vintage cars, so after my coffee, it was time to take a look

Old fashion cars rom the thirties.

Still going strong. They could build fancy cars back then.

After this free exhibition, continuing north on a boring road with even more boring scenery, and to make matters worse, facing even stronger headwinds.
Despite the uneventful journey, I did get to experience something interesting.

Armadillo, First time in my life I see an animal like this in real time

Tentcamp aftrwer ruta 9 north, middle of nowhwere

Meeting trucks and truck trailers in headwinds is not fun; at times, I’m pushed towards the shoulder, which is covered in loose gravel.
Late afternoon after almost 90 km on the saddle, middle of nowhere after ruta 9 north I found a green spot to pitch up my tent. I was tired and hungry!

No probs to get roof over my head and dinner. I fell into sleep around 10 PM. Woke up by traffic noise around 7,30 AM and did some easy breakfast, yougurt, musli bread and coffe. Before I fell into sleep I listen to latests version of  Millenium, Havsörnens skrik by Karin Smirnoff

Distans: 88,93 km
Average Speed: 11,8 km/h
Max Speed: 39,2 km/h
Cycling Time:07,34 h/m
Total Time:11:01 h/m
Medium Temp: 11,0 C
Max Temp: 24,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C

November 27
While I was preparing for today’s cycling and packing up the tent, I heard a friendly ”good morning greeting” from the road. It was a cyclist who was more of a morning person than myself. She was a younger woman from Brazil with the same destination as me, Puerto Natales. She planned to stop in the next town, Villa Tehuelches, for breakfast.

– Maybe we’ll see each other later  we said to each other before she took off… into the headwind. Same headwind I also get later.

Villa Thuelches and stop for coffe

Nasha, the brasil girl fighting the slop after Villa Thuelches

After this meeting we did’nt see each other more. Cople hours later during the afternoon, much of the wind disappeared, and I cycled as if I were in heaven. The sun was shining, and most of the hills seemed to have vanished.
I also meet other nerds like me.

French family from Grenoble.They started i Peru and now going for Ushuaia

Google and Maps.Me failed, also my map and GPS device… The bridge is gone, destoyed… How to continue!!

Around 7 p.m., after 96 km I found an incredibly nice spot to pitch the tent, right next to a lagoon. Perfect for personal hygiene and dishwashing.

Additionally, I now have only about 60 km left to Puerto Natales, and with the afternoon weather, I plan to arrive around 1 p.m…. but!

After a nice dinner and coffe I jumped into my sleepingbag and almost immediately fell asleep.

Distans: 96,47 km
Average Speed: 13,9km/h
Max Speed: 33,5 km/h
Cycling Time:06,02 h/m
Total Time:10:05 h/m
Medium Temp: 16,0 C
Max Temp: 26,0 C
Min Temp: 06,0 C

November 28

I woke up few times and heard rain falling on the tent canvas, not much and nothing to worried about. My morning was quite nice, sun was shining and no wind so far.
When packing down my tent I saw the surface of the lagoon begin to ripple, and then the wind kicked in for real.

The rest of the day, the headwind and crosswind became stronger and stronger.

The only positive is that the landscape has now started to change character. More bushes and small trees, settlements, and more delight for the eyes.

Cows are waiting to be let out to pasture.

I thought I was in Chile….!

Chiles answer to our recyclings station at home.I belive God has bestowed a
blessing upon it

Entrance into Puerto Natales and 61 km headwind is over… for this time

Casa Lili was the hostel I found both cheeap, clean and nice to join

Distans: 61,1 km
Average Speed: 10,1 km/h
Max Speed: 37,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,01 h/m
Total Time:08:21 h/m
Medium Temp: 13,0 C
Max Temp: 23,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C

 

See yeah later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

25 November

Today it was planned to get up north and Puerto Natales but the wind, sidewind from north west stoped me after 7 km cycling.The risk to get into a traffic accident was abvious. The weather foecast has promised better weather, less wind today but they failed completly.  18-21 m/s was what I had to fight against.  So it was just turning back and facing a more easily cycled wind, hopfully tomorrow

Google has rapport that Puneta Arenas is one of the five most windies citys in the world.
Punta Arenas, or Sandy Point in Spanish, is located close to Rio Gallegos, Argentina but a little further south.

It is the windiest city in Chile and one of the windiest cities in the world, averaging a wind speed of 14.5 mph year round. The windiest month is December, while June is the calmest. Punta Arenas is one of the world’s southern-most cities  (shawnvoyage)

24 November 
Today one  month to chrismas and I’m headning norhtwest towards Puerto Natales and the glaciers. It’s a trip on the bike between 245-266 km from Punta Arenas where I been the last two days. Backpackers Paradise hostel was my place,

Things that worried me most was the wind, not for today but satuerday when I’m on the saddle again!

Stormy Weather in Punta Arenas

Man problems to stand upright

Yesterday it was so windy so it was even difficult to walk. I saw hats and caps blowing around. People sometimes had to hold on to poles.

Weather forcast has promised better condition tomorrow, god bless they have done a proper forcast!

I'm planning for two maybe three days on the roads to Puerto Natales, all depends on the weather, especially depends on how much it will blow and whether it is a headwind or tailwind.

Good preparation is necessery to fight wind and 250 km

My route and altitude profile

See Yeah

P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726