The first thing that struck me was the prices in Ushuaia, quite expensive, but because their inflation rose to 141% in November.
This means that the opportunity to withdraw cash was limited. Ushuaia worked reasonably well, but then it was almost impossible. In El Calafate. I had to try five banks and almost ten ATMs before I succeeded. Likewise in El Chalten, completely impossible. I had to wait until Cochrane in Chile.

The prices are more expensive than I expected, but fruit, on the other hand, is very cheap!
– 1 liter of milk is approximately 11 SEK
– 1 kg of cheese 98-100 SEK
– Bread, white, is 25 SEK/kg
– Eggs are approximately 28-30 SEK/kg
– Beer is 14-15 SEK/50 cl, imported is approximately 20-22 SEK
– Beef, standard, is approximately 110 SEK/kg
– Sausages, available in many different varieties, are between 175-200 SEK/kg
– Tobacco is similar to prices in Sweden Alcohol has lower prices
– Local bus trips are approximately 10 SEK, with Chileans being quite loud

I learned from the guide in Puerto Natales that the average net salary in Chile is about €920 or just over 10,000 SEK, and for a waiter, it’s barely half of this, around €510 or 5550 SEK.

The roads outside the main highways, especially the Carretera Austral, are bad, very bad, and mostly gravel roads. I find the traffic to be fairly courteous. Most of the time, I am given the right of way when crossing a road.

Language, on the other hand, is a problem. If you don’t speak Spanish, which applies to me, you have to rely on the translation program on your phone… if you have internet connection, which is not always possible.
The standard is much lower than what we are used to. However, with the help of this and gestures, it works quite well.

Waste sorting is a phenomenon they have barely heard of; here, everything is thrown into the same bin. Almost no sorting, as far as I have noticed.
That’s why you see cans and PET bottles lying everywhere along streets and roads. In shops and larger stores, you see uniformed guards; there are quite a few of them. There may be five or six or more in a supermarket.

The weather is like a typical Swedish summer, warm days and really cold nights. The grass is wet every morning.

The nature is incredibly beautiful, with a lot of water, streams, and rivers, and amazingly beautiful snow-covered mountains. The lupines are growing like crazy down here, hardly an invasive species.
In the south, from Ushuaia upp to El Chalten it’s very flat, lots of head and crosswinds and the settlements are few

Dogs are everywhere, never seen so many. They don’t look starved, but they seem to be homeless in a strange way. They run loose on the streets and chase cars but seem to have some sort of control. Similarly, the drivers also seem to be aware of this.

Many dogs lie outside shops, sleeping or waiting to be petted and/or fed. They rarely go into the stores from what I have observed. Despite this, there are quite a few stores selling dog and cat food, so they are somehow taken care of. However, I feel sorry for them nonetheless.

Many places after Carretera Austral gets its, their income from tourism. Almost regardless of how small the community is, there are campgrounds with and without cabins, hostels, and hotels. There are probably 10 hostels for every hotel. Usually, there are three or four mini-markets, and they sell everything. One can ponder over how expiration dates are on various goods.

Talk to you later
P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

8-10 December

I arrivede into El Chalten around noon. Flat road and no headwind made it quite easy to rech the town. El Chalten it’s like a mekka fpor bikes and trekkers. It’s also close to Chile.

It is completely evident that El Chaltén and its inhabitants live off tourism. I could list 100 hostels, guesthouses, and a few hotels. Bars and restaurants are also plentiful.

Personally, I booked a spot at a campground right in the middle of town, so to speak. Access to a kitchen, dining room, lounge, shower, and toilet. It turned out to be three nights.

My camping plce in El Chalten

A quite cozy campground with mountains all around. I also made a reservation for the boat trip across Lago del Desierto that will take me towards Chile. At the campground, I met many like-minded people and, of course, gained a lot of useful information about the journey from El Chaltén to Villa O’Higgins.

The weather varies from chilly to sunny, only to turn to rain a few minutes later. The information I received made me more convinced that the journey would be anything but easy. Not the boat trips, but from the Argentine border control located at the northern end of Lago del Desierto. From here, it will be walking, carrying, and pushing the bike for over 6 km, and quite steep uphill

See yeah later
P-G
//The Global Cyclist

7-8 december, Pink house – El Chalten

I felt rested when I woke up shortly after 06:30. Outside the ten it was quiet, only occasional vehicles passing by, and the sun illuminated my tent. Had some breakfast – musli, yogurt, bread, and coffee. Then off shortly before 8:15. Headwind, but not much.”

Pulled over at La Lenoa, right by the river of the same name. It’s already crowded here, and the restaurant inside is almost full.

Grabbed a coffee and pulled out my computer for route updates. The sun is shining now as it can, and it’s a typical Swedish summer day.

Got some better wind a few miles later and stopped at some viewpoints. Often the subject of curious questions and photos.

At one point, some Indians wanted to try riding my ”bike.” Almost had a crash… ”How heavy it is!” he exclaimed. ’You must be strong.”

Some curious people from India want to try my bike…jisses

At next stop ”Mirrador” I am also seen with curious eyes and ears by a group of bus tourists from Italy.

Before they left, a younger woman came up with a bag of sandwiches with cheese and meat and asked if it would taste good.

–Absolutely
I answered happily and surprised, and gave her a hug. Later I pedaling away after some miles I cought up a German young couple, 25 years old.
They had the same goal as me, El Chalten. Most cyclists I’ve met have ridden from north to south. So, this couple was the second cyclist going in the same direction as myself.
I think it has to do with how the winds blow down here.

Flat, empty landscape, and Lake Viedma.

Patagonia is so flat and empty of buildings that I wonder if the world’s population could fit here if it were as densely populated as New York.

Few minutes after 2 pm I turned left into Ruta 23. It’s a huge T-junction and close to a busstop shelter a strange monument stood nearby. At first looked like a crashed plane but it turned out to be a metal fish…. I will latwer try to find out more about this strange object and let you know

Metallic fish, or El Pez Metálico monument Ruta 40- Ruta 23

From now the forenoons nice and helpful wind turned over to headwind and the road stretches become longer and longer.The only thing that keept my mind a little bit positiv was the mountains in front of me,  the majestic Fitz Roy and the blue green Lago Viedma on my left side.

You can’t stop get impressed of its beauty. Sometimes I imagine that Fitz Roy tells ”Come Closer, explore me.

After around 75 km and at the very end om Lago Viedma I say some small cozy ponds so I decided it was enough cycling for to day. The headwin has done its job and I was tired. It’s always pratical to tent beside water, you can do some cleaning and wash the dishes.

My Gourment kitchen

My campplace 45 km south El Chalten and Fitz Roy standning proudly in the background

Fitz Roy

While eating late dinner the sun is still up, the cows roaring, horses grazing on the other side of the ponds and the birds is relaxing and playing in the water and I enjoy my view.

Tomorrow flat and 45 km road to El Chalten and the first thing I gonna do and prepare is how to book ferryboat over Lago del Desierto. This tour dosen’t accept credit cards , only cash and what I’ve been told by others making bank withdrawals from ATM in El Chalten is often a problem,  often run out of money

See yeah Later

P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

3-7 December, El Calafate- La Leona

I arrived into El Calafate aftert midnight, outside it was totally black. I packed my bicycle and then cycled around to find a grren pot to pitch up my  tent. I thought I found one but a car with flashing red-blue lights show up. It was the local police. They banned me to camp , it was to dangwerous they said…. Try bus termina!

Just to face a follow the local rules so I cyclewd back to bust terminal trying to get some vhours sleep. At the bus terminal, several others had made the same decision… to stay overnight until all hostels and hotels opened.

I got barely three hours of sleep before being awakened by the hustle of bus tourists arriving. Checked Hotel.com for a cheap hostel and found Hostel Titan just about 4 km outside the city center. Booked two nights for $22, including breakfast.

The hostel looked more like a hotel, spacious, elegant furniture, clean and well-maintained. Upstairs, there was a dining room and a pub, both quite luxurious.

Hostel Titan Receptiobn

Hostel Titan dinning room and pub

Kitchen part

The problem was that the hostel hadn’t received my booking despite Hotel.com notifying them. It got resolved after half a day.

As a goodwill gesture for all the hassle, I got to join the hostel’s tour to Perito Moreno

Perito Moreno glacier

Strangely enough, I think the problem was worth it.

My next goal isa El Chalten  which lies about 220 km north and by Ruta 40. I checked the weather reports several times, and they promised sunny and warm weather.

Feels really nice, so now I can skip long pants, a warm sweater, and a jacket. Instead, it’ll be 3/4 pants and cycling jerseys.
The wind is also supposed to die down, just 5-7 m/s. Dealing with a bit of headwind is something I’m calculating in.

I had very relaxing time in El Calafate. The town is busy with tourists, crowdy everywere. The day for heading El Chalten the sky is clear blue and I got tailwind my first 35 km. I turned left from Ruta 11 into Ruta  40 and close to the junction a couple from Switzerland has stoped for rest.

They heading El Calafate. Aftervsome small talks I continoue north facing some bheadwind. The sun was warming up and regardless the headwind it was quite veasy cyclingm, I’ve had worse than this. I feel also like my arms are going to get sunburned today.

Crossing Rio Santa Cruz blue-green water

Curious Indians wanted to try my bike. Was about to end up crashing… How heavy it is, he exclaimed

Later in the evening I stoped for water refilling at a lonley house after the road.
They also invited me for coffe and some cakes

Now n the late afternoon I got some tailwind so I continoue cycling futher while I had this wind in my back. When the clock struck almost 8:30 I saw the mythical house Pink House, here there will be camping tonight, but not indoors.
It is quite a different place. Just a rather ugly squat that is covered with graffiti from cyclists from all over the world. It’s is more than worn.
Still, it is shelter from the wind and the nearby river is a source of water with which to wash and it is, for whatever reason, a landmark for touring cyclists I didn’t sleep inside, pitch up my tent outside, find it more nice

The Pink House after Ruta 40

See Yeah Later
P-G

// The Global Cyclist 1726

December 1-2

From Puerto Natales first nice and easy cycling, then sidewind like no others so far. upon that a long slope uptil Chile bordercontrol into Argentina and then even longer uphill to the Argentine border control in Rio Turbio.

I stopped in town för coffe and sandwich which become a whole dinner . I was needed to ask for a bag to take with me half the sandwich. From here to El Calafaten the road is road winds in an arc and stretches out into a desolate and flat landscape. Nothing to see, just desolate, spme cows and sheeps thats all. But the road was pretty flat.

Camped 65 km east of Rio Turbio amongs dead or half dead trees to avoid the strongest wind.

Distans: 64,57 km
Average Speed: 11,4 km/h
Max Speed: 50,0 km/h
Cycling Time:05:34 h/m
Total Time:06:48 h/m
Medium Temp: 10,0 C
Max Temp: 19,0 C
Min Temp: 02,0 C

The morning after, headed towards El Calafate. I stopped at a police station in the middle of the wilderness. Asked for water, charging for my phone, and was offered to sit down eatiung for own coffee with a sandwich.
Tapi Aiki policestation in the middle of nowhere

Tapi Akie policestation officer who let me sit down while eating a sandwich and drinking coffe.

Then set off, initially on a gravel road that was supposed to be a  shortcut. The crosswind slowed me down and it was to risky for a crash. Back onto the main road, heading towards Esperanza. A detour of 70 km. Now I have a tailwind like crazy. Some sections at 30-40 km/h or more

Ruta 4o between Rio Turbio and Esperanza. Mostly total flat. This part some km from Tapi Akie

Arrived Esperanza just before 4:00 PM. Here, I’m supposed to turn left and encounter a hellish headwind and crosswind. The police stop both me and four motorcyclists from heading towards El Calafate. The risk of accidents is evident. The motorcyclists have to wait for the wind to decrease. I have to take a bus if I want to leave today or tomorrow. While waiting I stepped into the bar and just wait.

Distans: 121,89 km
Average Speed: 21,89km/h
Max Speed: 33,5 km/h
Cycling Time:06,02 h/m
Total Time:10:05 h/m
Medum Temp: 10,0 C
Max Temp: 18,0 C
Min temp 02,0 C

See yeah Later
P-G

//The Global Cyclist 1726

20 November

Wike upp 07.30 am and loaded my bicycle for todays tour and heading Porvenir. The brakfast is served at 08:30 and I’m alone . Coffe, two warm sandwiches, two pancakes with jam and glas of juice. Todays sunshine has switched over to rain and grey sky,
My plan is to head for Porvenir from where the ferry boat over to Punta Arena depart,  First 35 km easy cycling on concret surface road. Then I came to a Y-junction. Here I must stop because there is two different roads to Prorvenir, a short one and a longer one.

At this Y-intersection, there’s also a small shelter for cyclists and others to take cover from rain and wind. The shelter is filled with text on the walls and stickers from all corners of the world.

After some consideration and advice from a passing motorist, I choose the Y-71 road, the shorter option.

What I didn’t have a full grasp of was the road’s quality and length. It was a gravel road not worth the name, full of holes, stones, loose gravel, and completely devoid of any semblance of service. It bounces and shakes all the time, and the crosswind makes it difficult to maintain balance. Additionally, there are quite a few challenging hills.

This area must be a solitary paradise. Light years between houses and no shops and other services!!

I persevere in the crosswind and over the bumps. After exactly 77.61x km, I meet a touring cyclist from Ecuador. We chat a bit, and I find out that he’s headed to San Sebastian and has no tent with him. It will be a tough journey for him; he started in Porvenir and has already cycled over 60 km.

I continue my pedaling and reach a junction, and there’s another shelter for cyclists, called Circuito de Oro. A couple is already there, and I join them. They’re from Australia; his name is Alan, and hers is Alie. They are headed to Ushuaia and then flying home. They plan to stay at this shelter tonight.

I have some snacks and an energy drink. The view from here down to Ushuaia Bay is truly magical.

After about 45 minutes, I continue for another 7-8 km before setting up camp above a number of metal sheds that I guessed were for fishermen. Two larger open boats confirm this.

While setting up the tent, I hear barking, and they come towards me at first a bit cautiously. But then their joy spreads, and so does mine.

I continue preparing for the night, and for dinner, it’s boiled rice, ham, boiled egg, tomatoes, and a non-alcoholic beer… Coffee and cookies before I crawl into my Marmot sleeping bag.

I am completely exhausted, mostly mentally.

Distans: 93 km
Average Speed: 14,0 km/h
Max Speed: 35,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,37 h/m
Total Time:09:59 h/m
Medium Temp: 06,0 C
Max Temp: 13,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C

See Yeah
 P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

19 November

Out side the sun is shining and today I will take me to the Chile border at San Sebastian around 95 km . Mostley flat road. So far the roads are totaly lost of bars, cafe and shops, just a few hoses and  nothing much to see.
My first 15 km complete straight and sidewind.

Joyfully, the wind changed and became pleasant, like a tailwind, allowing me to maintain a speed of 23-23 km/h. There were, of course, some hills, but they weren’t too challenging. After about 40 km, I encounter a couple with the same cycling gear as mine… Touring cyclists.

We stop and exchange words. They are a couple from Belgium, and the girl named Fina has a trailer behind her, so I ask,

 – What’s it like to have a child with you?

 – It’s not a child but a dog!!

The belgian couple with the dog ollie

I’m completely excited with curiosity, and they open the trailer. Out jumps a black and white dog of an unknown breed, but it’s as happy as can be. She responds to Ollie, and they adopted her in Peru. She is 8 months old. I get some tips on entering Chile, as well as how the glaciers in El Calafate are to visit…

 – Don’t miss this, the guy says.

After about 20 minutes, we go our separate ways, I towards San Sebastian and the Belgian couple towards Rio Grande. The weather during the day is sunny but quite chilly. The only thing that surprises me is when I manage to startle some Guanacos, which run away and have no problem jumping high like a horse.

In the late afternoon, the wind changes back and forth between side, head, and tailwinds.

Around half-past four, I reach the Argentine control, also called San Sebastian. I stop at the small café for coffee and a muffin.

Argenina border at San Sebastian

No problems getting through. From here to the Chilean border and their San Sebastian is barely 14 km.

Here, there’s a bit more control, checking passports and other documents. I also have to fill out a form mostly for administrative reasons.

I stop at the border control, which has a room serving as the only restaurant.

Now I am in my 30th country during this Global Bike Journey that I started on April 1, 2017, and 39th overall if I count all my other bike trips.

Distans: 94 km
Average Speed: 15,3 km/h
Max Speed: 39,1 km/h
Cycling Time:06:08 h/m
Total Time:07;59 h/m
Medium Temp: 12,0 C
Max Temp: 21,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C

See Yeah
P-G

// The Global Cyclist 1726

17-19 NovemberMy first 15 km was easier then I expected and no probs to get out of Ushuaia, Google Maps told me around 100 km to Tolhuin and also made clear I need to do some climbing. Could be better weather, the rain pooring down from start.
While I pedaling I listen to a download podcast about a robbery of a value transport in Umeå in 2009.

After about hour and a half Google’s prediction proved to be spot-on with great success.
First some smaller climbings but then up, up and up through Garibaldi Pass and the rain still pooring down. Some parts of the uphill, I had to jump of from the bike and push it.

Half way uo i was needed to refill water

At least I was on the very top and first ting I saw  was a portal and a pointing view övr Lago Escondido.

After some photos I jumped on my bicyle and took me down. Before I left a touruíst guide informed me that a bar and restaurant was open and lies at the end of the lake.

Garibaldi Pass viewpoint laje down is Lago Escondido

Previously, I had felt that the handlebars were loose and while I’m cycling down it’s get worse. I stoped at the bar which was almost occupied by others and  order coffe and two fried eggs.

I also had the opportunity to dry my gloves, hat, and rain gear by a cast-iron stove that stood in the middle of the room.

From here to Tolhuin it was about 50 km. The head and sidewind has lost most of it’s power and I could hold quite a good speed. No villages after the road just a few small houses. The surrandings is wide open and barren, with short grass, small bushes, and gray dead trees that I got to experience.
After another 20 km sidewind came back and my speed decreased a lot and I also felt tired like hell. Two km before Tolhuin a pickup car stoped me and told me to follow him. He had a offer for me, I followed him and he took me to a big and fresh cafe, Panadería La Union middle of Tolhuin  and asked me to wait.

The cafe owner came out and welcomed me, offering a bed at no cost. He asked me to steer the bike to the back, then guided me into an adjacent building, a storage and bakery. In the basement, there were three beds. It wasn’t a three-star accommodation, but it had a roof over my head, and I avoided the rain. He also gave me the opportunity to take a shower! I didn’t say no.

After my shower I went back to the gigant cafe and order coffe and two cookies

A popular Cafe in Tolhuin

Distans: 92,5 km
Average Speed: 14,3 km/h
Max Speed: 69,4 km/h
Cycling Time:07,43 h/m
Total Time:08:12 h/m
Medium Temp: 03,0 C
Max Temp: 10,0 C
Min Temp: 02,0 C

I slept quite well despite some tingling sensations in the legs. Before I left i visit the cafe for a last time for coffe and a huge sandwich with cheese and ham. I also said goodby to cafe owner.

My trip to Rio Grande is about 110 km but I’ve seen the road is not so hilly.
Weather is quite good, no rain and not so chilly. Best of all I have headwind which means
that I could maintain about 19-22 km per hour.

The road and surroundings are empty and desolate, not much in terms of buildings.
The only company I got is just cows, horses, sheeps and very shy Ilamas. I the afternoon wether
change and become more windy, esspecially from the sides.

Around 5:45 PM it was not more then 10 km left but it was like hell, wind from head and side,
industrals buildnings, traffic lights every 100 meters and no centro in my sight.

17:45 I was in town,Rio Grande tired and bored.

Tomorrow I will head for the border into Chile and Google has described the route as flat, which is also evident in the graph.

Distans: 110,87 km
Average Speed: 18,3 km/h
Max Speed: 52,8 km/h
Cycling Time:06,01 h/m
Total Time:07:54 h/m
Medium Temp: 05,0 C
Max Temp: 20,0 C
Min Temp: 1,0 C

See yeah Later
P-G

//The Global Cyclist 1726

 

17 November

Woke up 05:10 and started to prepare my cycling towards Rio Grande. Outside it’s raining ”cats and dogs” so this day starts wet.

Check up weather forcast and it seems to be cold and rainy for many days… that’s the fact, just facing the reality.

My weather forcast prognos 14 days from now

While I’m writing this post wating for the staff to bring breakfast. What so ever I’m positiv
to rooling out from Ushuia and get north.

My route first couple of days

See Yeah Later
P-G

//The Global Cyclist 1726

Woke up at 6 and tried to go back to sleep again but no success. Get dressed and made some coffe in the kitchen. Outside the ground is white and snow mixed with rain in the air and the temperature shows 7 °C… No time for shorts.

Snow, rain and 6 C

Around 8 they serve breakfast, egg, musli, milk, breaad, jam and coffe. After that I started to finísh with assembly of the bike, bag holders and handlebar bag.

To cycle downtown is easy, mostly dowards,  more specifically very downwards, slope between 10 and 20 %. After some hundred meters I regret I left my gloves in the room. It’s very chilly. Cycling around and stoped

When I heard people shouting and manifesting loudly, the entire street was completely blocked by hundreds of blue-white flags with the ATE logo. It’s definitely a demonstration for fair wages.

 Ushuais demonstrate for fair wages and better conditions at workplaces

I stoped for a while and listen to speachers and drums and warm up my hands over a fire.Then I joined a coffeplace and open my Google maps I had prepared. Find out my first goalRio Grande is 210 km north and a little bit steepy!,especially from the beginning.It’s goona be no problem to stay warm.

Altidute profile to Rio Grande

Ushuaia relies on tourism. Banks, coffeshops, souvenirs, tourism agencys, and lots of shops selling outdoors equipments and clothes. Not a singe grocery shops like ICA,Coop or WiLLYS. Despite the tourism relies the english skills is quite bad.

Another thing, it’s also quite expensive, a medium coffe around 39-40 SEK, for a sandwich you need to pay 75-100 SEK.
Google and Trading Economics tells that inflation Rate in Argentina increased to 142.70 % in October so it’s understandably why people demonstrate. Something strange, all prices has a $ symbol

As I went back up, I felt my gears jump back and forth. I have to fix this tomorrow thats for sure. I also must check up how easy or difficult to use cards up north or  how much I need to withdrawal local currency.

See Yeah later
P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726