3-7 December, El Calafate- La Leona

I arrived into El Calafate aftert midnight, outside it was totally black. I packed my bicycle and then cycled around to find a grren pot to pitch up my  tent. I thought I found one but a car with flashing red-blue lights show up. It was the local police. They banned me to camp , it was to dangwerous they said…. Try bus termina!

Just to face a follow the local rules so I cyclewd back to bust terminal trying to get some vhours sleep. At the bus terminal, several others had made the same decision… to stay overnight until all hostels and hotels opened.

I got barely three hours of sleep before being awakened by the hustle of bus tourists arriving. Checked Hotel.com for a cheap hostel and found Hostel Titan just about 4 km outside the city center. Booked two nights for $22, including breakfast.

The hostel looked more like a hotel, spacious, elegant furniture, clean and well-maintained. Upstairs, there was a dining room and a pub, both quite luxurious.

Hostel Titan Receptiobn

Hostel Titan dinning room and pub

Kitchen part

The problem was that the hostel hadn’t received my booking despite Hotel.com notifying them. It got resolved after half a day.

As a goodwill gesture for all the hassle, I got to join the hostel’s tour to Perito Moreno

Perito Moreno glacier

Strangely enough, I think the problem was worth it.

My next goal isa El Chalten  which lies about 220 km north and by Ruta 40. I checked the weather reports several times, and they promised sunny and warm weather.

Feels really nice, so now I can skip long pants, a warm sweater, and a jacket. Instead, it’ll be 3/4 pants and cycling jerseys.
The wind is also supposed to die down, just 5-7 m/s. Dealing with a bit of headwind is something I’m calculating in.

I had very relaxing time in El Calafate. The town is busy with tourists, crowdy everywere. The day for heading El Chalten the sky is clear blue and I got tailwind my first 35 km. I turned left from Ruta 11 into Ruta  40 and close to the junction a couple from Switzerland has stoped for rest.

They heading El Calafate. Aftervsome small talks I continoue north facing some bheadwind. The sun was warming up and regardless the headwind it was quite veasy cyclingm, I’ve had worse than this. I feel also like my arms are going to get sunburned today.

Crossing Rio Santa Cruz blue-green water

Curious Indians wanted to try my bike. Was about to end up crashing… How heavy it is, he exclaimed

Later in the evening I stoped for water refilling at a lonley house after the road.
They also invited me for coffe and some cakes

Now n the late afternoon I got some tailwind so I continoue cycling futher while I had this wind in my back. When the clock struck almost 8:30 I saw the mythical house Pink House, here there will be camping tonight, but not indoors.
It is quite a different place. Just a rather ugly squat that is covered with graffiti from cyclists from all over the world. It’s is more than worn.
Still, it is shelter from the wind and the nearby river is a source of water with which to wash and it is, for whatever reason, a landmark for touring cyclists I didn’t sleep inside, pitch up my tent outside, find it more nice

The Pink House after Ruta 40

See Yeah Later
P-G

// The Global Cyclist 1726

December 1-2

From Puerto Natales first nice and easy cycling, then sidewind like no others so far. upon that a long slope uptil Chile bordercontrol into Argentina and then even longer uphill to the Argentine border control in Rio Turbio.

I stopped in town för coffe and sandwich which become a whole dinner . I was needed to ask for a bag to take with me half the sandwich. From here to El Calafaten the road is road winds in an arc and stretches out into a desolate and flat landscape. Nothing to see, just desolate, spme cows and sheeps thats all. But the road was pretty flat.

Camped 65 km east of Rio Turbio amongs dead or half dead trees to avoid the strongest wind.

Distans: 64,57 km
Average Speed: 11,4 km/h
Max Speed: 50,0 km/h
Cycling Time:05:34 h/m
Total Time:06:48 h/m
Medium Temp: 10,0 C
Max Temp: 19,0 C
Min Temp: 02,0 C

The morning after, headed towards El Calafate. I stopped at a police station in the middle of the wilderness. Asked for water, charging for my phone, and was offered to sit down eatiung for own coffee with a sandwich.
Tapi Aiki policestation in the middle of nowhere

Tapi Akie policestation officer who let me sit down while eating a sandwich and drinking coffe.

Then set off, initially on a gravel road that was supposed to be a  shortcut. The crosswind slowed me down and it was to risky for a crash. Back onto the main road, heading towards Esperanza. A detour of 70 km. Now I have a tailwind like crazy. Some sections at 30-40 km/h or more

Ruta 4o between Rio Turbio and Esperanza. Mostly total flat. This part some km from Tapi Akie

Arrived Esperanza just before 4:00 PM. Here, I’m supposed to turn left and encounter a hellish headwind and crosswind. The police stop both me and four motorcyclists from heading towards El Calafate. The risk of accidents is evident. The motorcyclists have to wait for the wind to decrease. I have to take a bus if I want to leave today or tomorrow. While waiting I stepped into the bar and just wait.

Distans: 121,89 km
Average Speed: 21,89km/h
Max Speed: 33,5 km/h
Cycling Time:06,02 h/m
Total Time:10:05 h/m
Medum Temp: 10,0 C
Max Temp: 18,0 C
Min temp 02,0 C

See yeah Later
P-G

//The Global Cyclist 1726

December 1
Puerto Natales

Yesterday I did a guided tour round and through the nationalpark Torres del Paine. A whole day with gorgeous and  scenic views never will forget.

Lago Nordensljold

Lago Grey and Ice berg

Monumento Natural Cueva del Milodón

Today I leave Casa Lili and Puerto Natales for heding north west and into Argentina again. My main goal is El Chaltern but my first milestone is El Calafate. Calculate  a week cycling  for this tour. Everything is depend on the weather and by that I mean headwind or crosswind and how much.

Casa Lili and kitchen activities. Nice place and cosy atmospher’

See yeah later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

26-28 November
Punta Arenas – Puerto Natales

Today weather and especially the wind is more accetable, not  perfect, but entirely bikeable. First 10 km upwards through industrial areas. Not much to see. After another 6-7 km I got some tailwind and my speed increased quite good. On my right side strait of Magellan andf I’m very pleased with the wind. When I passded the airport Presidente Carlos Ibáñez del Campo International Airport my route turned little bit west, still pretty flat but now I facing more and more headwind.
I can accept rain, but headwinds and crosswinds are brutal. After 52 km I saw a gasstation with coffe bar which is very unusual outhere so I stopped for coffe and some rest from head and crosswinds. It was necessary!

Outside in the parking lot, a number of car enthusiasts gathered for vintage cars, so after my coffee, it was time to take a look

Old fashion cars rom the thirties.

Still going strong. They could build fancy cars back then.

After this free exhibition, continuing north on a boring road with even more boring scenery, and to make matters worse, facing even stronger headwinds.
Despite the uneventful journey, I did get to experience something interesting.

Armadillo, First time in my life I see an animal like this in real time

Tentcamp aftrwer ruta 9 north, middle of nowhwere

Meeting trucks and truck trailers in headwinds is not fun; at times, I’m pushed towards the shoulder, which is covered in loose gravel.
Late afternoon after almost 90 km on the saddle, middle of nowhere after ruta 9 north I found a green spot to pitch up my tent. I was tired and hungry!

No probs to get roof over my head and dinner. I fell into sleep around 10 PM. Woke up by traffic noise around 7,30 AM and did some easy breakfast, yougurt, musli bread and coffe. Before I fell into sleep I listen to latests version of  Millenium, Havsörnens skrik by Karin Smirnoff

Distans: 88,93 km
Average Speed: 11,8 km/h
Max Speed: 39,2 km/h
Cycling Time:07,34 h/m
Total Time:11:01 h/m
Medium Temp: 11,0 C
Max Temp: 24,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C

November 27
While I was preparing for today’s cycling and packing up the tent, I heard a friendly ”good morning greeting” from the road. It was a cyclist who was more of a morning person than myself. She was a younger woman from Brazil with the same destination as me, Puerto Natales. She planned to stop in the next town, Villa Tehuelches, for breakfast.

– Maybe we’ll see each other later  we said to each other before she took off… into the headwind. Same headwind I also get later.

Villa Thuelches and stop for coffe

Nasha, the brasil girl fighting the slop after Villa Thuelches

After this meeting we did’nt see each other more. Cople hours later during the afternoon, much of the wind disappeared, and I cycled as if I were in heaven. The sun was shining, and most of the hills seemed to have vanished.
I also meet other nerds like me.

French family from Grenoble.They started i Peru and now going for Ushuaia

Google and Maps.Me failed, also my map and GPS device… The bridge is gone, destoyed… How to continue!!

Around 7 p.m., after 96 km I found an incredibly nice spot to pitch the tent, right next to a lagoon. Perfect for personal hygiene and dishwashing.

Additionally, I now have only about 60 km left to Puerto Natales, and with the afternoon weather, I plan to arrive around 1 p.m…. but!

After a nice dinner and coffe I jumped into my sleepingbag and almost immediately fell asleep.

Distans: 96,47 km
Average Speed: 13,9km/h
Max Speed: 33,5 km/h
Cycling Time:06,02 h/m
Total Time:10:05 h/m
Medium Temp: 16,0 C
Max Temp: 26,0 C
Min Temp: 06,0 C

November 28

I woke up few times and heard rain falling on the tent canvas, not much and nothing to worried about. My morning was quite nice, sun was shining and no wind so far.
When packing down my tent I saw the surface of the lagoon begin to ripple, and then the wind kicked in for real.

The rest of the day, the headwind and crosswind became stronger and stronger.

The only positive is that the landscape has now started to change character. More bushes and small trees, settlements, and more delight for the eyes.

Cows are waiting to be let out to pasture.

I thought I was in Chile….!

Chiles answer to our recyclings station at home.I belive God has bestowed a
blessing upon it

Entrance into Puerto Natales and 61 km headwind is over… for this time

Casa Lili was the hostel I found both cheeap, clean and nice to join

Distans: 61,1 km
Average Speed: 10,1 km/h
Max Speed: 37,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,01 h/m
Total Time:08:21 h/m
Medium Temp: 13,0 C
Max Temp: 23,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C

 

See yeah later
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

25 November

Today it was planned to get up north and Puerto Natales but the wind, sidewind from north west stoped me after 7 km cycling.The risk to get into a traffic accident was abvious. The weather foecast has promised better weather, less wind today but they failed completly.  18-21 m/s was what I had to fight against.  So it was just turning back and facing a more easily cycled wind, hopfully tomorrow

Google has rapport that Puneta Arenas is one of the five most windies citys in the world.
Punta Arenas, or Sandy Point in Spanish, is located close to Rio Gallegos, Argentina but a little further south.

It is the windiest city in Chile and one of the windiest cities in the world, averaging a wind speed of 14.5 mph year round. The windiest month is December, while June is the calmest. Punta Arenas is one of the world’s southern-most cities  (shawnvoyage)

24 November 
Today one  month to chrismas and I’m headning norhtwest towards Puerto Natales and the glaciers. It’s a trip on the bike between 245-266 km from Punta Arenas where I been the last two days. Backpackers Paradise hostel was my place,

Things that worried me most was the wind, not for today but satuerday when I’m on the saddle again!

Stormy Weather in Punta Arenas

Man problems to stand upright

Yesterday it was so windy so it was even difficult to walk. I saw hats and caps blowing around. People sometimes had to hold on to poles.

Weather forcast has promised better condition tomorrow, god bless they have done a proper forcast!

I'm planning for two maybe three days on the roads to Puerto Natales, all depends on the weather, especially depends on how much it will blow and whether it is a headwind or tailwind.

Good preparation is necessery to fight wind and 250 km

My route and altitude profile

See Yeah

P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

22 November

My Motorola call 06:15 and all bags on the bike. I just need to get dressed and jump on the bikle to cycle 7 km to ferry harbor.

Early morning ride to ferry harbor in Porvenir

Aftert two hours on the strait of Magellan Puenta Arenas is close.

I will stay in Punta Arenas some day for planning my next goal. I’ve not decided yet if I go for Torres del Pain or El Calafate. I don’t want to miss the chance to see the glaciers.

Before I choose a hostel, Backpackers Paradise I just ”walk about” for copuple of hours. Something that makes me sad is all of stray dogs leing here and there.

Stray dog gets some rest

Many of them don’t seem to be undernourished, so at least they get food, but it can’t help I get sad. My thoughts goes direkt to Jussi 💓, Enso 💓 and Gordon 💓 at home and of course little Algot 💓.

21 November

I have slept well but noticed that the weather has changed from windy to rainy and back. The sky outside is gray, really gray, with a worrisome crosswind. The fisherman’s dogs are barking and going crazy when he feeds the pigs he has at the back of one of his metal sheds.

I also get several visits from them. It’s so windy that I find it difficult to take down the tent under orderly conditions. Cycling is going to be devilish today, 50 km to Porvenir and plenty of hills to fight against. My GPS has show me whats I have to fight with.

A little bit hilly, headwind, bumps, gravel, rain and loose stones and I can’t do anything about it.

my neighbor, fisherman, dog owner and pig breeder

My roads surface for today

Moreover, I’m afraid I’ll miss the last ferry of the day to Punta Arenas. It departs around 3 PM.

Even though I get to experience things and places that most people I know will never come close to, I believe!

Sometimes the sun breaks through and the wind disappears, but only for a few minutes. No time for changing to shorts!

Down there lies Strait of Magellan and not so far to Porvenir

When I’m done with the tough hills and down by the Magellan Strait, I suddenly get a smooth road… Concrete surface, yippee ki yay and only 10 km left to Porvenir.

What did he say ”Saltkråkans Melker”…. This day a life

Distans: 48,2 km
Average Speed: 10,7 km/h
Max Speed: 43,1 km/h
Cycling Time:04,29 h/m
Total Time:07:38 h/m
Medium Temp: 10,0 C
Max Temp: 24,0 C
Min Temp: 05,0 C

See Yeah
P-G
// The Global Cyclist 1726

20 November

Wike upp 07.30 am and loaded my bicycle for todays tour and heading Porvenir. The brakfast is served at 08:30 and I’m alone . Coffe, two warm sandwiches, two pancakes with jam and glas of juice. Todays sunshine has switched over to rain and grey sky,
My plan is to head for Porvenir from where the ferry boat over to Punta Arena depart,  First 35 km easy cycling on concret surface road. Then I came to a Y-junction. Here I must stop because there is two different roads to Prorvenir, a short one and a longer one.

At this Y-intersection, there’s also a small shelter for cyclists and others to take cover from rain and wind. The shelter is filled with text on the walls and stickers from all corners of the world.

After some consideration and advice from a passing motorist, I choose the Y-71 road, the shorter option.

What I didn’t have a full grasp of was the road’s quality and length. It was a gravel road not worth the name, full of holes, stones, loose gravel, and completely devoid of any semblance of service. It bounces and shakes all the time, and the crosswind makes it difficult to maintain balance. Additionally, there are quite a few challenging hills.

This area must be a solitary paradise. Light years between houses and no shops and other services!!

I persevere in the crosswind and over the bumps. After exactly 77.61x km, I meet a touring cyclist from Ecuador. We chat a bit, and I find out that he’s headed to San Sebastian and has no tent with him. It will be a tough journey for him; he started in Porvenir and has already cycled over 60 km.

I continue my pedaling and reach a junction, and there’s another shelter for cyclists, called Circuito de Oro. A couple is already there, and I join them. They’re from Australia; his name is Alan, and hers is Alie. They are headed to Ushuaia and then flying home. They plan to stay at this shelter tonight.

I have some snacks and an energy drink. The view from here down to Ushuaia Bay is truly magical.

After about 45 minutes, I continue for another 7-8 km before setting up camp above a number of metal sheds that I guessed were for fishermen. Two larger open boats confirm this.

While setting up the tent, I hear barking, and they come towards me at first a bit cautiously. But then their joy spreads, and so does mine.

I continue preparing for the night, and for dinner, it’s boiled rice, ham, boiled egg, tomatoes, and a non-alcoholic beer… Coffee and cookies before I crawl into my Marmot sleeping bag.

I am completely exhausted, mostly mentally.

Distans: 93 km
Average Speed: 14,0 km/h
Max Speed: 35,3 km/h
Cycling Time:06,37 h/m
Total Time:09:59 h/m
Medium Temp: 06,0 C
Max Temp: 13,0 C
Min Temp: 04,0 C

See Yeah
 P-G
//The Global Cyclist 1726

19 November

Out side the sun is shining and today I will take me to the Chile border at San Sebastian around 95 km . Mostley flat road. So far the roads are totaly lost of bars, cafe and shops, just a few hoses and  nothing much to see.
My first 15 km complete straight and sidewind.

Joyfully, the wind changed and became pleasant, like a tailwind, allowing me to maintain a speed of 23-23 km/h. There were, of course, some hills, but they weren’t too challenging. After about 40 km, I encounter a couple with the same cycling gear as mine… Touring cyclists.

We stop and exchange words. They are a couple from Belgium, and the girl named Fina has a trailer behind her, so I ask,

 – What’s it like to have a child with you?

 – It’s not a child but a dog!!

The belgian couple with the dog ollie

I’m completely excited with curiosity, and they open the trailer. Out jumps a black and white dog of an unknown breed, but it’s as happy as can be. She responds to Ollie, and they adopted her in Peru. She is 8 months old. I get some tips on entering Chile, as well as how the glaciers in El Calafate are to visit…

 – Don’t miss this, the guy says.

After about 20 minutes, we go our separate ways, I towards San Sebastian and the Belgian couple towards Rio Grande. The weather during the day is sunny but quite chilly. The only thing that surprises me is when I manage to startle some Guanacos, which run away and have no problem jumping high like a horse.

In the late afternoon, the wind changes back and forth between side, head, and tailwinds.

Around half-past four, I reach the Argentine control, also called San Sebastian. I stop at the small café for coffee and a muffin.

Argenina border at San Sebastian

No problems getting through. From here to the Chilean border and their San Sebastian is barely 14 km.

Here, there’s a bit more control, checking passports and other documents. I also have to fill out a form mostly for administrative reasons.

I stop at the border control, which has a room serving as the only restaurant.

Now I am in my 30th country during this Global Bike Journey that I started on April 1, 2017, and 39th overall if I count all my other bike trips.

Distans: 94 km
Average Speed: 15,3 km/h
Max Speed: 39,1 km/h
Cycling Time:06:08 h/m
Total Time:07;59 h/m
Medium Temp: 12,0 C
Max Temp: 21,0 C
Min Temp: 07,0 C

See Yeah
P-G

// The Global Cyclist 1726